Baselworld 2018 Presentation of Breitling's new products
Right after arriving from Basel, I offer you my fresh experiences in the first tasting: the Breitling brand.
After CVC Capitals Partners bought Breitling, one of the few independent, family-owned watch companies, we were all eager to see what direction the watches with the winged B logo would take - incidentally, only the B without wings remains, first used on watches in 1940.
I often heard not only from colleagues but also from customers that it was time to rethink the design and bring something new to the table. It was precisely these requests that were heard by the new CEO George Kern, who, incidentally, had successfully headed IWC. (And if you would like to see the beautiful watches created under his leadership, just visit our Watch De Luxe Eurovea store.) But let's get back to Breitling! As the company has already announced, it will try to conquer the Asian market, which is dominated by Omega, Longines, and other long-established and conservative brands. That is why the new management has decided to embark on a path of new design, smaller diameters, and, of course, a completely new DNA, which has not yet been precisely defined.
Personally, I was concerned about these changes. A brand that has spent years building its reputation on specific designs such as the Navitimer or SuperAvenger with a 49 mm case diameter now wants to appeal to slender Asian wrists? Quite bold! Moreover, even before Baselworld, the first photos were gradually released, confirming the radical changes, and I must admit that my skepticism only grew stronger. I was most curious about the new Breitling Navitimer 8 series. I must admit that in the end, I was quite pleasantly surprised. (I apologize in advance for the photos taken with my cell phone, but there wasn't much time to select the collection for our two stores, and I had to make the most of it.)
Navitimer 8
The name of this brand new collection is taken from the Huit Aviation department, which Breitling founded in the 1930s to produce on-board chronographs for airlines. "Huit" means eight in French, and at that time, the number eight referred to eight days of operation – on electricity, of course. The new model differs from the classic Navitimer mainly in its bezel, which is more reminiscent of the edge of a coin, and the option of getting the Navitimer in a three-hand version and also with a panda dial.
Navitimer 8 B01 Chronograph 43 (AB0117131B1A1)
Diameter 43 mm, Caliber B01 (manufacture), steel bracelet
Price of the model shown: €7,300
The 43 mm diameter is certainly more sober and very wearable in the long term. The reasonable thickness of the case also contributes to this. I also like the two-tone dial and Arabic numerals with a thick layer of luminescence. The clasp on the bracelet was less appealing, but I was told that this will be refined.
Navitimer 8 Chronograph 43 Blacksteel (A13314101B1X1)
Diameter 43 mm, Caliber 13, DLC finish, strap: calfskin
Price of the model shown: €6,200
A slightly cheaper version with caliber 13 and DLC finish; personally, I would opt for the version without DLC as a precaution. It is about €900 cheaper, and the watch looks much better without the black finish.
Navitimer 8 B01 Chronograph 43 (AB0117131C1P1)
Diameter 43 mm, Caliber B01 (manufacture), strap: alligator
Price of the model shown: €7,000
Blue is always a good choice :-), you will definitely find this model in our store.
Navitimer 8 Chronograph 43 (A133141101C1A1)
Diameter 43 mm, Caliber 13, steel bracelet
Price of the model shown: €5,300
The model I wrote about above, but without DLC.
Navitimer 8 Automatic 41 (A17314101C1A1)
Diameter 41 mm, Caliber 17, steel bracelet
Price of the model shown: €3,900
The first Navitimer model without a chronograph. Personally, I really like this model, with its easy-to-read, simple dial with a sunray effect, which is not so common in the Navitimer series. For me, it's a beautiful everyday watch, in blue, of course, how else? My biggest favorite from the new Navitimer 8 series.
Navitimer 8 Automatic Unitime 43 (AB3521U41B1A1)
Diameter 43 mm, Caliber B35 (manufacture), steel bracelet
Price of the model shown: €7,700
I can't say I don't like them, but they remind me quite strongly of a model from a competitor that I won't mention.
Navitimer 1 Chronograph 41 (A13324121B1X1)
Diameter 41 mm, Caliber 13, strap: calfskin
Price of the model shown: €5,500
Navitimer 1 Automatic 38 (A17325241B1P1)
Diameter 38 mm, Caliber 17, strap: alligator
Price of the model shown: €3,920
Here we come to the Asian market. In Europe, I would rather recommend the 38 mm model to women than to men. Although it is true that classic watch manufacturers often use this diameter for men's models, this is not the case here. Ladies, Le petit Navitimer is for you!
SuperOcean Heritage II B01 Chronograph 44 (AB0162121G1S1)
Diameter 44 mm, Caliber 01 (manufacture), strap: rubber
Price of the model shown: €7,200
This collection is one of the best-selling in Slovakia. No wonder. Simple, reliable and, last but not least, the price. At last year's Baselworld, Breitling presented the revamped SOH II series, replacing the aluminum bezel with a ceramic one, an ETU manufacture caliber with a 5-year warranty and a 3-day power reserve, for €4,470. We hadn't even properly arrived home from Switzerland and we already had three orders on the table. However, despite the excellent manufacture chronograph, I am concerned about the price of this model. A price tag of over €7,000 is relatively high for a SOH, which makes the Chronomat collection a more attractive option. On the other hand, the dial is truly impressive.
Navitimer Super 8 B20 Automatic 50
Diameter 50 mm, Caliber B20 (manufactured), strap: NATO
RRP – not yet determined
A model from which I expected a little more. I was particularly disappointed with the strap design. However, I have been told that this will be worked on further.
In any case, you don't have to agree with my opinion at all. It is highly subjective, and I would be very happy if you would write me your perspective at e-shop@wdl.sk. If anything has caught your interest, please contact me or my colleagues at the Watch De Luxe Eurovea or Watch De Luxe Aupark stores.
Introduction
My name is Martin Demko, and I have been working with watches since 2011. During that time, I have handled many models. Cheap, expensive, renowned brands, and lesser-known ones. My work is both a pleasure and a hobby for me. What I have always strived for and continue to strive for is maximum honesty towards customers, even at the expense of business. I have completed a number of courses and a relatively large amount of training in Switzerland. If you like my articles and their subjective view of individual topics, or if you don't, feel free to write to me at m.demko@racio.com. I will be very happy to receive any feedback and thank you in advance for it.
