Love at first sight IWC Portugieser EDITION "150 YEARS"

I was sitting with a colleague in front of the IWC display case, sipping coffee, when I noticed a beautiful three-hand Portugieser with a white dial, black Arabic numerals, and an 8-day power reserve. It was an anniversary model from the Jubilee series. I was familiar with this collection and knew what it was all about, but I thought that every single piece had long since found its owner. So I was all the more surprised when I discovered that one of the last ones was right there in our store.

A brief introduction to the special edition IWC Jubilee

The Jubilee edition was launched in 2018 to celebrate the brand's 150th anniversary. The company released a package of models consisting of 29 different limited editions ranging from 15 to 2,000 pieces, based on individual collections: DaVinci, Portofino Pilot, etc.

The Jubilee models were available in only two dial colors: blue and stunning white. The dial, as you will see later in our photos, is a masterpiece. Twelve layers of lacquer (white or blue) carefully applied to an enamel base. The enamel is a conceptual bridge between the current and original Pallweber pocket watches from the International Watch Company (IWC).

Although the color of the dials was limited to only two options, the range of materials and complications was somewhat more reasonable. Steel, gold, platinum, and you could choose from a classic simple 3-hand model to a perpetual (eternal) calendar to a tourbillon.

Each model bears the number of the given quantity on the case. I don't know if you've noticed, but IWC does not label limited editions as 345/1000. That is, 345th piece out of 1000. Each piece from the given quantity bears the engraved inscription "ONE OUT OF 1000." An elegant solution for the manufacturer, but not so good for the customer. Because if you thought it would be great to give your father a model with a serial number showing his year of birth for his anniversary, you're out of luck.

I don't prefer watches with chronographs; I like simple, clean lines, but I appreciate attention to detail all the more. After working in this business for some time, I have developed a passion for the design of the dial and the display of the small second hand. However, the most important thing remains charisma. A watch that appeals to me must have at least one of these attributes.

How did I arrive at these characteristics that I prefer in a watch? I first began to think about the dial when I had the opportunity to see the divine Reverso Ultra Thin 1948 by Jaeger Le-Coultre. A snow-white dial with a delicate powdered finish and blue, perfectly balanced enamel indices. I was completely enchanted.

I started leaning towards the small second hand, only at the "6" position, thanks to the Omega DeVille Prestige Small Second. This model has become the benchmark for elegant, timeless watches for me. And finally, the charisma. Definitely Cartier Santos! What they have inside cannot be described. When I bought them, I didn't even know what caliber was inside. Well, not quite. Sure, I knew everything, but no technical parameter was as dominant for me as the aura that emanated from the watches.

Even now, as I write this article, I have my "Santos" watches on the table next to my PC, and every time I look at them, I feel satisfied. (The steel bracelet and aluminum surface of the notebook don't get along very well.) However, I'm going to write about them in a separate article.

Let's admire the beauty of the Portugieser, inspired by the first model from 1930. This model satisfies all my "vices," except for its large diameter of 43.2 mm. On the other hand, for a gentleman with a large build, size is everything. Do you remember the Omega Aquaterra XXL?

I decided that there was no point in writing a detailed description, so I borrowed the watch, took my camera and a colleague who knows how to take photos, and we took a few interesting shots for you, as you can see.

This Portugieser is beautiful. Purity, simplicity. The white is truly snow-white, shiny, and combined with black graphics, it represents a perfect symbiosis. This symbiosis is not disturbed in any way by the blue rhodium-plated slender leaf hands. The small seconds dial with its gently tapered shape discreetly breaks up the composition. It is precisely this flair that fascinates me. I am fascinated by the gently recessed seconds indicator and the convex sapphire crystal.

If you are also impressed by the dial, I'm not done yet. Inside is a hand-finished mechanical caliber 59215 with an 8-day power reserve! Anyone familiar with Schaffhausen knows that they are not shy about their movements and are happy to show them off. In this case, it's an adult film. When you turn the 12.7 mm thin case over, you'll see some of the 217 components. I've raved about the dial and its details, but now I'm done and I feel like crying.

Working on the bridge, individual components, step wheels, and finishing the giant "spring" house brings me to my knees and reminds me why I love MECHANICAL watches. Why I will never, ever be tolerant of questions like "What do you think about me buying a Garmin for my 30th birthday?", even if it was asked by a friend over lunch. A battery-powered watch for a milestone birthday? A smartwatch? Am I not doing enough to educate those around me? After all, watches are supposed to tug at your heartstrings!

I want to enjoy the view of the Geneva waves, admire the "perlage," but most importantly: I want to do this for the rest of my life, not just until Garmin stops making updates! I understand that the price difference is about €9,500. But what is missing from the Tissot Heritage Petite Seconde model, priced at €945? A pedometer? An LCD display? A water fountain?

My name is Martin Demko and I have been working with watches since 2011. During that time, I have handled many models. Cheap ones, expensive ones, models from renowned brands, and those from lesser-known brands. My work is both a pleasure and a hobby for me. What I have always strived for and continue to strive for is maximum honesty towards customers, even at the expense of business. I have completed a number of courses and a relatively large amount of training in Switzerland. If you find my articles and their subjective view of individual topics appealing, or if you disagree, feel free to write to me at m.demko@racio.com. . I would be very grateful for any feedback and thank you in advance.