Three times B: Baselword, Breitling, and the future

Baselworld

In early April 2020, giants Rolex and Patek Philippe left Baselworld. Just a quick reminder: Rolex unveiled its first waterproof oyster case to the world at this exhibition in 1931, Patek Philippe had been at every single exhibition since its inception in 1917, and Heuer presented the world's first automatic chronograph here in 1969. You can find out more about Baselworld in our previous article.

Everything significant that has been invented in the world of watchmaking over the last 100 years or so has been presented here. After a few days, Chanel, Chopard, and Tudor joined the departing brands. A week later, further information emerged that other major players were also withdrawing from the exhibition: TAG Heuer, Zenith, and Hublot (LVMH group).

This was perhaps to be expected, as last year we had to get used to the absence of the giant Swatch Group with its brands Omega, Blancpain, Breguet, Longines, etc. However, such a massive departure, which may not even be over yet, is still a surprise. The first serious cracks appeared in 1999, when Cartier and Piaget left the exhibition, followed later by other brands, to create their own exhibition, SIHH - Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (Geneva).

For us retailers, this is a relatively big loss. Every year, we had the opportunity to choose and experience all the new products in one place, under one roof. It was economical and convenient. However, it is necessary to move on. We will see what form of presentation these brands that have left Baselworld will bring. Individual watchmakers are certainly well aware of the importance of staying in touch with customers and finding a suitable and attractive way to present their new products to the entire watchmaking world. I believe we have something to look forward to!

Breitling

Nowadays, everyone is trying to move their activities online, and Breitling is no exception. This year's presentation of new products took the form of a video conference, giving you the opportunity to experience live what we experience every year at the exhibition in Basel. But without the opulent party at the French airport or the CHF 5 espresso at the Basel Messeplatz. The video featured company director George Kern, who joined from IWC at the turn of 2017/2018. As you probably know, Breitling divided its model lines into three worlds or pillars some time ago: water, air, and earth.

So let's start with water

The key collection in this world is the SuperOcean Héritage model, which was launched in 1957. Kern, as he announced at the beginning, decided to reset the company and return it to its roots.

The new model called SuperOcean Héritage 57 (hereinafter SOH) is clear proof of this. The watch is almost entirely inspired by the original model. However, the recessed ceramic bezel and large indices look very good. The vintage design has been enhanced by reducing the case size to 42 mm, which may not please many people. This is because watches of this type with a massive wide bezel appear significantly smaller on the wrist than models with a more subtle bezel. I don't mind the diameter, but what I'm not thrilled about is the water resistance, which has been reduced from the original 200 meters to 100 meters. It's still sufficient, but SOH has always been a collection that you could use without worry for almost any occasion, from a suit to a spacesuit, which has been reduced somewhat. The movement will be powered by a classic automatic Breitling caliber with COSC and a 42-hour power reserve.

The cherry on top for me was the special edition SuperOcean Héritage 57´Rainbow with rainbow-colored indices. I personally liked this model the most, but I found out that I was probably the only one in my circle who did. What's more, only 250 pieces of this model will be produced, and it will be available exclusively in boutiques. You can customize this piece with a wide range of colorful ECONYL NATO straps. Some time ago, Breitling introduced straps made from plastics that pollute the ocean. It is interesting to observe the polarity of opinions on this special edition. I really like the watch, but several of my colleagues say it is only good for shooting at the fairground. With its overall appearance, choice of straps, and the material from which it is made, this watch pays homage to the lifestyle of the 1960s. And so, opinions on it usually vary depending on the individual's relationship to this period. Since their introduction, however, I have had three inquiries, which failed only because we are not a boutique and could not supply them.

From the depths of the sea, we rise into the air

Here, George Kern presented the Navitimer 35. He pointed out that women also deserve watches that emphasize their femininity while giving them confidence.

Honestly, I don't think the Navitimer is a collection for women. The watches may have a diameter of 30 mm, but there is a clear emphasis on the Chinese market. The video even introduced a new member of the squad mission, Yao Chen, who loves the new Navitimer 35 for women. As in previous cases, the model has a pearl bezel, which was once the privilege of Montbrillant models. Six versions were presented: with red gold, without, combined, with diamonds, with mother-of-pearl, and, in addition to metal bracelets, leather straps in three colors.

Overall, I rate this series as the weakest of the new products presented. I have sold the Navitimer to women a few times in the store. But it was a men's watch with a chronograph—just as a real Navitimer should be—and the woman flew a cargo plane to the Far East. Simply put, for me, a Navitimer should be over 40 mm, have a chronograph, and that's it! On the other hand, we'll see how popular it becomes with our female clientele, and here, any assumption is misleading.

And now we're coming down to earth

The Chronomat, a series representing the earth, has always been successful. I think this was also because it combined elements of all three of the above-mentioned worlds into one.

A versatile, well-built watch introduced by Ernest Schneider in the 1980s with the slogan "let's make the chronograph cool again." I assume this was at a time when watchmaking was recovering from the battery crisis. The new model presented by George Kern draws on its original DNA. The case diameter has been reduced to 42 mm, and the "riders" on the bezel have been given a new function, namely the ability to change them – unscrew them and arrange them in any order according to your needs for the countdown function, used mainly in regattas, and the count-up function for divers. However, I assume that few people in our region will use this feature.

The biggest change – apart from the lighter case – to the Chronomat series is the completely new bracelet, redesigned in detail and given the unusual name Rouleaux. I really like the bracelet; it has its own identity, and this lighter version of the bracelet suits the muscular case of the Chronomat. Those of you who, like me, prefer watches with specific bracelets will surely agree with me. The main parts of the links are matte and the center links are polished.

The Chronomat will be available in a relatively wide range of dial colors. For me, the salmon version is the clear favorite. However, to form your own opinion, you need to see the watch in person on your own wrist. The model will be powered by the Breitling 01 manufacture caliber with a 3-day power reserve, and the water resistance of the case remains unchanged at an impressive 200 meters.

Although I was unable to "feel" the watches at Baselworld as I was accustomed to doing every year, I must express my delight at the new products presented. Especially the SOH 57' Rainbow Edition and the new Chronomat 42 with a Roureau bracelet and salmon dial. I don't think that's all, and we'll see more models soon.

The future

It is very difficult to predict how the watchmaking world will develop in the future, given the massive changes not only in the global economy, but also within individual watch brands. However, I dare to predict that people will not be left without watches. And there will always be plenty of companies offering them. I look forward to presenting more news with you. Enjoy reading!

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Introduction

My name is Martin Demko and I have been working with watches since 2011. During that time, I have handled many models. Cheap ones, expensive ones, models from renowned brands, and those less so. My work is both a pleasure and a hobby for me. What I have always strived for and continue to strive for is maximum honesty towards customers, even at the expense of business. I have completed a number of courses and a relatively large amount of training in Switzerland. If you find my articles and their subjective view of individual topics appealing, or if you disagree, feel free to write to me at m.demko@wdl.sk. . I would be very grateful for any feedback and thank you in advance.