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Longines: The history of the winged hourglass
Longines: The history of the winged hourglass

Longines: The history of the winged hourglass

Date
15. 08. 2025
Author
Szabolcs Luczay

Longines is one of the most unique members of the great Swiss watch brands. The Swiss watch brand's long and varied history and unique philosophy define a brand with a truly distinctive character, built on timeless values. With its balanced and consistent style, the brand represents the golden mean, shying away from bold visual innovations that often resort to exaggeration and overly historicist designs. Longines swears by mature visual elements and often uses precious metals, which is one of the reasons why it is popular among watch enthusiasts who love timeless features.

Márkatörténet

A Longines története 1832-ig nyúlik vissza, amikor Auguste Agassiz megalapította a márka jogelődjeként nyilvántartott kereskedőházat két partnerével St-Imier-ben. A kezdetekben a cég a hagyományos, úgynevezett établissage rendszerben működött. Ez azt jelenti, hogy a mai értelemben vett gyártás a márka által foglalkoztatott órásmesterek otthonaiban zajlott, akik a kész alkatrészeket a kereskedői szerepkört is magára vállaló központi, mai értelemben kis méretű üzemnek továbbították.

Agassiz built up an extensive commercial network, which enabled him to sell his watches on other continents, particularly in North America. By 1846, both of his partners had retired from the business, leaving Agassiz to run the company alone. In the 1850s, his nephew Ernest Francillon, who had a degree in economics, took over the management of the company. Francillon realized that he could significantly increase the efficiency and quality of watch production by concentrating the various manufacturing processes in one place.

Auguste Agazzis (bal), Ernest Francillon (jobb)

 

1866-ban Francillon két szomszédos telket vásárolt a Suze folyó jobb partján, St-Imier völgyében. A telkeknek otthont adó réteket a helyiek Les Longines (jelentése: hosszú rétek) néven ismerték, és Francillon ezt a nevet választotta újonnan felépített óragyára számára, innen származik a máig használt, 1889 óta jogvédett Longines márkanév. A St-Imier-i gyárban készült órákra a ma már ikonikus és ugyancsak jogvédett szárnyas homokóra is felkerült.

From this point on, the brand experienced significant growth. Longines produced its first in-house movement, the 20A, followed by its first chronograph movement, the 20H. The latter is a so-called mono-pusher chronograph, which is characterized by the fact that it can be started, stopped, and reset with a single button, sequentially, i.e., one after the other, in a fixed order. This development proved to be very popular, especially in sports that rely on timekeeping, such as horse racing, with which the brand still has deep ties today.

Throughout its long history, Longines has stood out for its innovative engineering solutions, constantly seeking opportunities for technical advancement. The factory expanded steadily, and by 1911 Longines employed more than 1,100 workers and sold its products worldwide. Today, the brand is a pillar of the Swatch Group, which encompasses many watch brands.

Gallery (3)

Longines Conquest Heritage (left), Longines Mini DolceVita with diamond inlay, Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 (right)

 

The brand's philosophy and relationship with its ambassadors

 

Longines' philosophy can be summed up in the slogan "Elegance is a state of mind," which means that elegance is not an objective quality, but a way of life and a creed. Longines only selects recognized public figures who embody elegance, respect for tradition, and a commitment to innovation in both their professional and private lives. The brand represents this not only through its excellent products, but also through its ambassadors. Only those who exemplify Longines' timeless values in their own field in an exemplary and authentic manner can become brand ambassadors. The list of ambassadors is growing, but it remains consistent in quality and includes celebrities such as Henry Cavill, Jennifer Lawrence, Kate Winslet, and Barbara Palvin. They are not just the faces of the brand, but also exemplify timeless elegance, sophistication, and commitment in their everyday behavior. Each of them is outstanding in their own field and consistently serves the public good.

The Longines portfolio

 

Master Collection

The Master Collection embodies classic elegance, perfectly combining Swiss watchmaking traditions with timeless design. The collection offers dress watches (for elegant occasions) with a restrained, detail-rich aesthetic, often featuring models with complications such as moon phase or GMT functions. The series is typically available in stainless steel cases decorated with precious metals, and the models are powered by advanced Longines calibers that provide a long power reserve.

HydroConquest collection

 

The HydroConquest collection is designed for water sports enthusiasts, perfectly combining elegance with the technical sophistication required for water sports. The watches are highly water-resistant, equipped with a rotating bezel, and optimized for use in aquatic environments thanks to their robust design. The collection is available in a variety of colors and sizes, with a choice of straps.

Conquest collection

 

The Conquest collection is one of Longines' most successful and versatile series. This collection embodies the harmony between sporty elegance and everyday wearability. Originally designed as a dress watch, the series has now evolved into a universal family that is equally at home in a business environment and during leisure activities. Conquest watches are characterized by their robust yet elegant design, available in stainless steel cases and in various sizes. The collection offers a wide selection: from traditional models to chronographs, watches with GMT functions, and extremely impressive versions decorated with precious metals.

All models share the same features: a large dial and narrow bezel, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass, and an anti-reflective coating that ensures optimal readability in all conditions.

Heritage Collection

 

The Heritage category was created to honor Longines' rich history, featuring classic and timeless designs powered by finely crafted Swiss mechanical movements. The collection offers an exciting and varied selection from the brand's history, with collections inspired by earlier models that retain the original design elements but meet today's technical requirements. The collection revives the most successful members of Longines' brand history, the series that contributed to the brand's century-long success. One of the outstanding Heritage models is the Longines Legend Diver, an exceptionally slim diving watch available in several colors.

DolceVita and Mini DolceVita

 

The Elegance category focuses on elegant timepieces, including women's watches that best embody the Longines philosophy. The DolceVita model family stands out, created in the spirit of Italian lifestyle and effortless elegance, with its iconic rectangular case. The model family also includes the Mini DolceVita, which is hugely popular despite its small size. The DolceVita collections are very popular among women thanks to their elegant and graceful features and detailed craftsmanship. The watches typically have a quartz movement and are available with a variety of colored leather straps. The premium versions are often decorated with diamonds or precious metal coatings.

Spirit Collection

 

The Spirit collection draws inspiration from the world of travelers, embodying the brand's pioneering spirit. The series has been shaped by the demands of travel, perfected by adapting to today's aesthetic and technical requirements. Some models offer advanced chronograph functions such as the flyback mechanism, which means that the user can stop, reset and restart the timing process with a single push of a button. Normally, this would require three consecutive button presses, as was the case with Longines' early 20H mono-pusher chronograph mechanism. In professional timekeeping, such as at sporting events, this can lead to inaccuracy. Some models feature a GMT complication, but all models are made from high-quality materials.

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