A watch for life? The new Omega Diver 300

Paradoxically, the Seamaster 300 watch case was only capable of withstanding pressure of 20 ATM, or 200 meters, at the time. Watchmakers were limited by the constraints of the era. However, this was not the very first diving watch created by the company. One of the first attempts – albeit not a very elegant one – was the Omega Marine model (reference 679) from 1932 (patent).

Why not elegant?

Because at that time, all the important patents that ensured water resistance were owned by Hans Wilsdorf – the first water-resistant Rolex Oyster watch from 1926. This led engineers at the time to develop a protective case in which the watch was placed and thus protected from the outside world. In practice, this meant that before each time correction and winding, the watch had to be removed from its protective case (Swiss patent number 146310).

It is quite sad that when it comes to the evolution of "diving watches," this model is often overlooked. Everywhere you look, it's just Submariner, Blancpain, or Radiomir from Panerai. However, Omega played a key role and was the only company to put its creation to the test. In 1937, the watch was submerged to the bottom of Lake Geneva, to a depth of 73 meters, where it remained undamaged for a full 30 minutes! Omega later received a certificate from the Swiss Laboratory for Horology confirming the model's ability to withstand the equivalent of the pressure found at a depth of 135 meters. I think that says it all.

The Seamaster 300 model series lived its own, perhaps not entirely remarkable, life until 1995, when the producers of Fleming's James Bond decided to give Pierce Brosnan a new Quartz (battery-powered) Seamaster Professional Diver 300. And since then, Omega watches have appeared in every single Bond film. The entire series of films featuring the charming British agent, and especially Daniel Craig, has been extremely successful. The Seamaster Diver 300 series has been no less successful on store shelves. The model with a blue dial (212.30.41.20.03.001) or black dial (212.30.41.20.01.003) was extremely popular, commonly referred to as the good old "diver's watch."

A new era

In 2018, Omega embarked on a long-awaited revitalization. Fortunately, its management was well aware that, as with the Porsche 911, this is a very strong cult, and that any changes must fully respect the identity of the model.

The new Seamaster Diver 300 features a ceramic bezel and dial. The diameter has increased from the original 41 mm to a very wearable 42 mm. The choice of material for the bezel was relatively clear. Color fastness and scratch resistance made ceramic the clear winner. However, it didn't stop at the bezel; it also found its place on the dial. The dial has a glossy finish and, together with the bezel, creates a cohesive impression. I was captivated by the waves on the dial. They are laser-engraved into the ceramic base, giving them remarkable razor-sharpness and underlining Omega's mastery of its craft. The shiny edges with matte notches will not let you take your eyes off them until you have examined every single detail.

Large and extremely legible indices with Super-LumiNova dominate the "canvas," which is the alpha and omega of diving watches. It is a joy to watch the steel indices stand out from the highly luminous ceramic. The play of details does not stop with the hands. They are skeletonized and sword-shaped, referencing Seamaster models from the last century. Some have pointed out that it is a shame that Omega did not use an optical logo, but only printed it on the dial. In my opinion, with so many 3D elements and inscriptions, it would simply have been too crowded. Now it is in perfect harmony. I just hope that Omega doesn't "ruin" it with a chronograph in the future, that would be a tragedy.

The conical helium valve, patented by Omega, can now be operated underwater, which was not possible with the previous version. On the back, behind transparent sapphire crystal, is the manufactured caliber 8800, which bears the designation Master Chronometer (Metas). I won't go into detail about it now, as it certainly deserves its own article, but its accuracy and durability are excellent. Its predecessor was equipped with a CO-AXIAL caliber 2500, a truly reliable and time-tested movement. The craftsmanship of the case and bracelet is in no way inferior to the dial. Other brands, even those in higher price ranges, can only quietly envy this.

I am fascinated by Omega's approach to this model. Even though the price with a steel bracelet is €4,540, which is the starting price for this brand, you feel as if the hotel manager himself came to your dinner and brought you the best bottle of wine he ever had in his cellar. Even though you only had the main course without appetizer and dessert. In my opinion, this is currently the best you can find on the market in this price range. The model is so complex and versatile that if I had to choose just one watch and never buy another, I would definitely choose this one.

The watch is available in 15 versions with 3 dial colors, in a bi-color version with 18-karat gold and rubber straps. Even though the market is currently turbulent and every other brand is searching for its identity, Omega is doing its own thing. It has a well-defined policy and approach that has not changed over the years and will not change. Why should it, when it works? You can view the Omega Diver range HERE.

Introduction

My name is Martin Demko and I have been working with watches since 2011. During that time, I have handled many models. Cheap ones, expensive ones, models from renowned brands, and those from lesser-known brands. My work is both a pleasure and a hobby for me. What I have always strived for and continue to strive for is maximum honesty towards customers, even at the expense of business. I have completed a number of courses and a relatively large amount of training in Switzerland. If you like my articles and their subjective view of individual topics, or if you don't, feel free to write to me at m.demko@racio.com. I will be very happy to receive any feedback and thank you in advance for it.